Day 20
Sunday 29 January at Port Elizabeth (PE), South Africa. The sun is shining, the air is hot, the sea is green. The official temperature is 23ºC but it feels much hotter in practice. We arrived at 0400, an event that we viewed in spirit from a horizontal position, and the brows were open from breakfast time.
This place is not at all what we expected. We had got the impression from somewhere or someone that it was a small town with maybe a Wells Fargo office, a railroad and perhaps the odd elephant; it is actually a huge city with over a million inhabitants. Our berth is in the commercial port, and two large bulk carriers are unloading nearby as I write. There are the usual containers everywhere (I am beginning to know Mr Maersk very well). Rows of cars are ranged on the jetty ready for export – PE is called the Detroit of South Africa (heaven forbid) because of its car manufacturing industry. We thought of walking into town in our usual way, but it became quite clear that that would be impractical unless we wanted to stroll down a motorway for half an hour. Free shuttle buses were provided and we took advantage of one of these. On the side of the bus was a large sign stating, “Please do not throw stones at this bus”, which was a bit off-putting. The bus was a little basic, with wire-mesh seats: three one side, two on the other, like you see in American films about prisons. This made for a fairly narrow aisle which made it hilariously difficult for those passengers of (ahem) rather large habit to squeeze down, and they overflowed from the seats into the aisle like well proven dough. The shuttle bus took us, not into the centre of the city, but to a large shopping mall and beach on the outskirts (it being Sunday, the city would probably have largely been closed).
The mall and the hotels proved to be as impressive as the ones in Cape Town: modern, tasteful, very clean, very scenic and still no graffiti. The overall impression was of a Mediterranean setting: think Cannes or Nice with maybe a touch of Disneyland. Big affluent-looking hotels and a bustling Sunday scene of families (of all colours) enjoying themselves. Again, it felt perfectly safe and there was no hassling you in the streets, although there were ethnic stalls selling native goods. We did the shops (bought nothing), wandered the foreshore (it actually reminded me – for some reason – of Weston super Mare without the mud, the kiss-me-quick hats, the brown water, and the freezing wind) then found a convenient bar. Here we sat outside watching the world go by, drinking the local beer, and catching up on our emails.
Back onboard at about 1500 for some tea. We tried sitting out on our balcony but – much to our surprise – it was too cool in the shade. We repaired to the shower (in series, not parallel) to wash off the thick layers of sun cream. We liked PE though, as I said, we did not ‘do’ the city centre. It was great.
The Captain’s Cocktail Party (CTP) last night was a most pleasant affair, and he proved to be a very jolly chap: gregarious, witty, informative and with a good sense of fun (I cannot say that I ever came across such characteristics among the Commanding Officers of HM Ships). He is also a Commander in the RNR and so the ship now flies the Blue Ensign at the stern instead of the Red Ensign, just like the old liners of old (which also had Captains in the RNR). I still haven’t worked out how the ship flies the British flag now that the ship is registered in Bermuda (the Bermudan flag is the Red Ensign defaced with a crest). However, never mind, there are few enough ships flying the British flag these days. As before, we had a good chat with other guests, all of whom were charming. The Australians we met were good fun and very relaxed. There are all manner of nationalities onboard, but the biggest contingent is the British, followed by Australians (about 600), then a few Americans, then The Rest. I did not mention in my last report of the CTP that the Captain goes on stage and introduces his senior officers to fanfare and applause: Deputy Captain, Chief Engineer, Hotel Manager, Entertainment Director, etc…and the Executive Chef. All the important people. They all looked quite uncomfortable on stage and I felt really sorry for them. The things you have to do in cruise ships. I ate South African wildebeest for dinner last night – most enjoyable, a bit like very lean steak. Tomorrow they are offering springbok, so I will give that a go too, and report.
Oh dear. Jane has discovered the gas turbines. As you know, the memsahib is sensitive to noise and sits upright at the first foreign noise at night like a meerkat. Up to now, the novelty of the surroundings, the sunshine, the improved health, the occasional warmth, the officers in uniform, the penguins, have all combined to lull her into a false sense of relaxation and benignity. The other evening, before we sailed, the gas turbines were spooling up and she did her meerkat thing; she hadn’t noticed it before. I think I mentioned earlier that the ship has electrical propulsion through pods. I did not mention that the electrical power comes from diesel engines low down in the ship and two gas turbines on the upper deck, inside the funnel housing. Being of lighter construction than diesels, the turbines can be sited above the waterline, which makes for better survivability when we hit that iceberg. They are run when the ship goes at her full speed of 29 knots (never happened yet) and when entering or leaving harbour, when full power might be needed (“Only you can save me now, Chief”). So, actually, those turbines were running whenever we entered or left harbour; it is only now that she has noticed it. I suppose it is a good sign that she is back to normal. Trust Miss Jodrell Bank to pick up the LM250s in their acoustic housings two decks away. I shall have to speak to the Captain.
Final summary of my overall view of South Africa from the limited bits I have seen? Much better than I expected, very Mediterranean, very affluent, very welcoming, integrated and very patriotic. A faint question mark against the country’s administrative ability and efficiency, doubts about the bits that we didn’t see, and a very faint question mark (based, unfairly, on nothing really) over whether it can withstand the anarchy and corruption engulfing other African states.
And so to La Réunion.
Day 21
Monday 30 January finds us at sea about 50 nm off the East African coast, heading roughly for the bottom edge of Madagascar. Wind Force 4 from the SE, sea state Slight. 23ºC. Jane had spotted a Shoe Sale (I use capitals deliberately) in the Daily Programme and we attended that. I knew I would be be safe, as they did not have the sizes for her diddy feet and all were sparkly and inappropriate for day use (this is my feminine side coming out). We then went on to the second terrorist lecture by our journalist which, again was excellent and a little more up-beat. There is an art appreciation thing in the Art Gallery this afternoon and then a lecture on the First Battle of the Somme, which we thought we would go to.
Having read the last two blogs (with the occasional raised eyebrow) Jane has decreed that I am no longer to refer to those with glandular problems who are challenged in the posterior and abdominal department, lest I further fuel the impression that I am bigoted, arrogant, intolerant and prejudiced (heaven forfend!). The proscribed list is growing larger: at this rate I won’t be able to be waspish about anyone. Of course, I shall take no notice.
We spent 15 minutes on the quarterdeck before lunch – sorry, I mean the exclusive Grills Terrace (PLU, no riff-raff) – listening to the calypso band on the Pool Terrace, three decks below further aft, and in that short time we picked up sunburn on our faces. This is a fine demonstration of the fact that the temperature may seem modest, and the sun hazy, but it is high in the sky and powerful. The calypso band is very good, by the way. It reminds Jane of home (and I don’t mean Melbury) – she is Caribbean by birth.
Tonight is the African Ball and Jane will be wearing a grass skirt with coconuts for a bra. Or is that Tahiti? Sorry, I got a bit carried away there. These balls, by the way, are not quite what you would imagine. We just dress up in Black Tie (or female equivalent), go to dinner as usual, Jane turns a few heads and breaks a few men’s hearts, then we go to our cabin for a sensible cup of hot chocolate or Ovaltine and go to bed. Occasionally, we have gone down to the ballroom to watch the bad band plays and the dodgy dancers dance, but that doesn’t start until 2145, which is almost past our bedtime. On warm balmy nights we have been known to take a romantic stroll on the upper deck, but the wind usually precludes that: it plays havoc with my hair and I think I may be getting split ends.
I have alluded to the wind before and – indeed – have oft pontificated about it before we came on the voyage (clicking into lecture mode here: pay attention). Those who have never been to sea do not appreciate the basic physics that a ship passing through the water at 20 knots in still air will have a wind of 20 knots across the deck and that is quite substantial; if the prevailing wind is not calm, then the relative blast will be even higher. The exception is if the wind is from astern, in which case it will cancel things out. So anyone watching TITANIC, with the two stars standing on the prow, should realise that what they did was virtually impossible: they would have been blown away by the wind.
We have managed to arrange for some of our luggage to be struck down into the hold when we disembark, to be collected again when we return for Voyage 2 from Singapore to Southampton. This will be great, as we will not need any of our evening clothes or winter gear in Australia, and anything that reduces our luggage is to be favoured. Curiously, I had asked Cunard if I could do that when all this was in the planning stage and was told that it was a “No, No” for security reasons. Ask onboard and common sense reigns. So we spent the First Dog Watch today packing all our clothes to make sure it would all fit into the appropriate cases, then unpacking it. It is lucky that the steward didn’t come in: he might have thought we were doing a flit.
I thought the Art Gallery talk was about Prince and was waxing poetic about the well-known pop group (demonstrating that I was down there with da boys, and cool), only to be told by an exasperated Jane at lunchtime that the subject is PRINTS and that Prince is a single bloke. And he’s dead anyway. Well that’s my street cred gone, and I didn’t have much to start with. I think Jane is starting to bond with our waitress because they were both giggling at my misfortune. Women can be so cruel. I tried pointing out that they couldn’t distinguish an impulse turbine from a reaction turbine like I could, and offered to explain the difference, but it didn’t seem to impress them somehow.
Day 22
Tuesday 31 January – last day of the month (‘Thank Heavens’, you may be saying back in UK) – and three weeks to the day since we set off on The Grand Adventure. We set our clocks forward by an hour early this morning, so that we are now on Charlie time, three hours ahead of you on GMT. It is becoming warmer again: very comfortable outside at 24ºC (like walking in ass’s milk), but not too sunny. We are about half way between Africa and southern Madagascar, position at 1216C was 29 deg 36.9S 37deg 19.3E, course is 063, Wind Force 3 from the NE, sea Slight. Depth of water is 5,000 metres, so we won’t be going for a dip. The Captain tells us that the depths are home to many strange creatures, including Sea Cucumbers of all shapes and sizes, some big and fat with no limbs, and others long and thin like caterpillars. I’m sure there’s a joke there about the passengers, but I cannot allude to it under the new censorship rules. The Captain is a very chatty fellow, and very informative; he gives a regular broadcast at noon. I’m not sure what he’s on, but I could do with some.
The talk on prints (not Prince) in the Art Gallery yesterday was quite interesting. Limited edition prints are usually restricted to 195 because it has been found from experience that the quality starts to deteriorate after about 200. The picture is scanned and the painter’s signature is digitally removed. The prints are then made – usually on paper, but it can be done on almost any medium – using a very sophisticated and expensive ink-jet printer (called a Mimacky I think) and five ink jet colours. They are printed in only one batch, using only one ink reservoir. After printing, the artist personally adds his signature and the print number. Where the print is of a painting that involves relief (e.g. oil paintings created with a palette knife) the relief is added to the print manually by artisans. Finally, if desired, a gloss resin can be applied to the print to help preserve it. So there you are, you heard it here first. Incidentally, the Art Gallery is one of our favourite spaces onboard: it is a long, narrow compartment, low down on the starboard side, flooded with natural light from large (almost circular) windows about five feet in diameter. The sea rolls past twenty feet away and this, and the paintings of course, make it a very peaceful place.
Formal Black Tie last night, and one bloke turned up in the Princess Grill wearing a Hawaiian shirt, straight floral tie, bright red chinos and a dark grey boldly-striped suit jacket. Clearly, I had missed the notice that said it was a Fancy Dress party. If there is one thing that really annoys me (apart from warm champagne and a few other things) it is when an establishment has rules, but fails to enforce them. When you book the voyage, Cunard makes it quite clear that it has a dress code onboard of no shorts, jeans or vests after 1800, jacket and smart trousers for men on Informal nights, and Black Tie for men on Formal nights. The line caters for the formal, special, occasion. Non-conformists are restricted to the canteen – sorry, Kings Court buffet – and Carinthia Lounge only. I reckon 99% of the passengers follow this well-published and oft reiterated dress code, but there are always going to be a few rebels. I do understand those who prefer a more relaxed sartorial style on holiday, but plenty of other cruise lines will meet their preference, so why come with Cunard if you don’t like the dress code? Hurrmph! It quite spoiled m’dinner last night, and provoked the memsahib into telling me, “For God’s sake, stop moaning”. Not often that the Old Girl blasphemes, so I must have been having a bit of a toot on.
Chateaubriand tonight for dinner. The springbok last night was delicious – like nothing I had ever eaten before. I thought it would be like venison, but no, it was very light with a delicate texture that could easily be cut, whitish pink in colour, sort of a rabbit/chicken/pork meat. Nice flavour. Poor Bambi.
Day 23
Pinch, punch, first of the month. It is 1 February, we are (almost) off the sunny coast of Madagascar and the sun is burning your eyes out. Well, more or less. It was very warm out there at 0600 this morning. I told Mrs Shacklepin, but she just groaned at me and told me to shut the curtains.
Situation at noon: 26deg 40.7S 44deg 28.3E, Wind Force 3 from SE, Sea Slight. 27ºC. 70nm S of Madagascar.
A final lecture by our terrorist journalist, this time on the threat of Putin and the Litvinenko assassination. Polonium 210 – an obscure radioactive poison – was used and it left a radioactive trail all over London, and in the aircraft that the assassin used. To this day Putin vociferously denies it was him. All very sobering.
We have discovered that, when you have done so many days sailing with Cunard you qualify for various stages of Cunard Club Membership. This came to light when we had to apply for replacement boarding cards, the magnetic strip and/or the bar code on the existing ones having ceased to work. The new cards have – note this – silver strips on them. Yes, we are now Silver Club members. Moreover, we will become Gold Club members on arrival in Fremantle, so we will be at this heady level when we start the return trip. The annoying thing is that we will be just one day short of achieving Platinum level when we complete in Southampton. These stages bring increasing privilege, such as free Internet and complimentary bottles of wine, priority boarding, extra-low bowing by the flunkeys and so on, but get this, there is A Badge: a discreet pin that declares to the minions and lesser Gods that here is a person of Supreme Importance. But we won’t get the pins until we get to the UK. This is terrible. And, in a scene reminiscent of the TV show ‘Frasier’, I am determined to qualify for that Platinum Club membership. Just one day, that’s all it will take.
This evening we broke with the Ovaltine tradition and actually went down to the Queen’s Room Ballroom after dinner to hear the calypso band play. We even ordered drinks as we sat and watched the few dancers (who were far too good). Unfortunately, when the calypso band came on the lead singer had reported sick and so they were assisted by the traditional entertainments team. They were fine, but the music was not Caribbean, which was a shame. Jane went over to chat to them, wearing her Jamaican hat (not literally), to request a song, but they had never heard of ‘Kingston Town’ and didn’t respond to the question of where they came from. Maybe they were white men from Surbiton, blacked up. As the event kicked off (“It’s Party Time! Is Everyone In The Party Mood? Yeah!”), I found it a bit bizarre to watch these ancient, tubby, pensioners, with their white hair and bald heads, bopping around the dance floor like teenagers, then I caught a glimpse of my reflection in the glass partition and realised that I was one of them. I wasn’t dancing, of course, I was nursing a gin and tonic and wondering where my life had gone. And so to bed.
Day 24
Thursday 2 February and it is raining. Not your freezing cold lashing sleet like you are getting from time to time at the moment, but warm, soft, refreshing rain (as in the hymn); the first real rain since leaving England. It was only a squall of course, and it is still getting hotter out there: 29ºC as I write. We put the clocks forward yet another hour at 0200 this morning, so we are now on Delta time, 4 hours ahead of you in the UK. We are roughly half way between the bottom tip of Madagascar and our destination of La Réunion, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. Sea is Slight, wind Light Airs, and there is a slow gentle swell.
This is another busy day (we are supposed to be on holiday, for heaven’s sake), with a talk on Mars (fascinating, and amazing photography – visit not recommended); a lecture on oil extraction and fracking (plenty left, and fracking perfectly safe if properly regulated); the calypso band outside by the pool at lunchtime (beer al fresco); and a violin/piano classical recital in the afternoon (enchanting). We skipped lunch, but made up for it with Afternoon Tea in the huge Queen’s Room (ballroom) served by white-gloved waiters, with a string quartet playing in the background. This last event was packed five minutes after start time, and most enjoyable. It was not, perhaps, quite so good as the tea in the exclusive Grill Lounge because – as Jane observed – this time they served whipped, not clotted, cream for the cream tea. Oh dear. Perhaps I should have told them that we were Silver Badge Important People.
God, people are so slow, and that is just the able bodied! They lumber into the theatre like lurching tortoises and then just stand there uncertainly at the top of the aisle, with bovine unawareness and indifference, peering around like cows chewing the cud. Then, ever so slowly, they lurch down the aisle before stopping dead suddenly.
“Shall we sit here Doris?”,
“Oh, I don’t know Norman, let’s sit there”.
So they climb over four people and sit down. Thirty seconds later, they are up again and climbing out.
“You were right Norman, let’s sit there”.
Then they are waving silently at their friends when the performance or lecture starts (“You Hoo, Mervyn, we’re here!”) before they are up again:
“Norman, you said that this talk was called The Rise of Tourism! The Speaker has just said it’s called The Rise of Terrorism!”.
Off they roll, treading over everyone on the way out, ruminating all the way. I know all this because I am usually either standing or sitting behind them, grinding my teeth and thinking, “For God’s sake, get in, sit down and sit still”. You think I’m joking, don’t you? I am writing this in the theatre and half of that has happened before, and the other half is being repeated right now in front of me. Yes, yes, I know I’m going to be like that one day, but – God forgive me – it drives me bats! If you walked everywhere at 4mph like I do, and were fundamentally impatient and flawed, like I am, then I am sure you would understand. I think I will have to see the doctor and get a valium, or I will eat my right arm before the voyage is over. Imagine what it will be like if – heaven forbid – we have to abandon ship: we will never get off (see Blog 1).
One of the features of the voyage (perhaps all cruises) is that the ship is passionate about hygiene. This is because, if someone comes down with an illness, it spreads like wildfire. I would guess that Norovirus is the big worry. All surfaces, hand rails, door handles and lift buttons are constantly being cleaned and it is the custom to disinfect one’s hands with alcohol at every opportunity like one does when visiting hospital; there are hand dispensers everywhere. I gather that, if someone is ill then their cabin is immediately isolated and thoroughly decontaminated, and they themselves are incinerated in the ship’s furnaces. I made that last bit up. Yet, you know, I still see people walking out of the lavatories without washing their hands. And there you go.
Well, we arrive in La Réunion – a craggy volcanic outcrop in the Indian Ocean – early tomorrow, so I will try to get this off to you in the usual way when we get ashore It is the first time QM2 has visited the island and our berth in Le Port (how original a name) is, apparently, not much bigger than the ship itself, so the entry will be – as ever – challenging. The buzz is that there is nothing ashore in Le Port, so there are shuttle buses to the nearby town of St-Paul, where we hope to find a roadside café and take a pastis or two. À demain.