I was cruising in the Caribbean. The sea was an azure blue and the boat rolled gently in the swell. It was lovely and warm, and I was approaching a sandy beach as white as icing sugar with the intention of anchoring. Jane was wearing a green bikini (at least, I think it was Jane) and her cool arm reached over and tenderly held my hot left elbow.
“Sorry”, she said, “ I was just checking you were alive”.
“Oh, thanks very much”
Of course, I had been dreaming, but the last bit had been real. It seems I had fallen asleep over my book. Unlike my spouse, who could fall asleep on a clothes line, I hardly ever doze off in a chair. This time I had let the side down and done the Old Man thing. I wasn’t too sure about the frank, “checking you are alive” bit, but I suppose it was nice of her to make sure. It was the antihistamine that was making me groggy, of course. I had tried a different type after my left arm had turned into that red dirigible referred to in Blog 55 and this new drug seemed to be helping in the arm deflation process, though with the penalty of a permanent state of doziness. Jane hates it when I am dozy: not because she begrudges me a little nap, but because it is punctuated by very frequent loud yawns of, “A-A-R-G-H”. She does not like the “A-A-R-G-H”; it drives her nuts. I have great difficulty in yawning quietly in accordance with her frequent requests, but sometimes I get as far as the “AAR…” before I stop myself which, for some reason, annoys her even more. I did point out to her that I feel the same about her sneezes which, like most women, just consist of a “Ssst”. There is none of the full blown, “ ArRR – TISHOO!” that men do, blasting their mucus and germs everywhere and deafening the populous in the process. Women just do this, “Ssst”, which is neither use to man nor beast. Where is the pleasure in that half-hearted effort? It doesn’t even clear their noses.
You will be pleased to know that my left arm did not drop off after all, but – boy – did it take a long time to heal. I still don’t know what stung me, but it might just as well have been a scorpion for the pain, swelling and recovery time that it produced. The latest theory is that it might have been a ladybird, as we found quite a few hibernating onboard. If true, then it would be amazing that such an innocuous insect could produce so much damage. We are now beating out our clothing before putting it on, as if on safari in deepest Africa.
It is far too busy in the marina. Children run up and down the metal pontoon, lively conversations with raucous laughter are rife in the still evening air, rubber dinghies or RIBs with outboard motors race everywhere and – clearly – others are doing what we are doing: relaxing and using their boats as a floating holiday home. This is very poor: don’t they know that this marina and river are for our exclusive use? We have been spoilt, of course. Last year we came down in April and May during school term time and virtually had the place to ourselves in perfect weather. This year, the whole world is topsy turvy and many people seem to be permanently on holiday (or “furloughed”). It did calm down a little after the weekend, suggesting some small trend towards normality, but Dartmouth itself is heaving with people whenever we go over there. Clearly the “staycation” is in full flow.
When we moved our boat from the inland waterways of the non-tidal Rivers Thames and Severn to the coast, I had hoped to see a vast improvement in knowledge of the Rules of the Road at Sea (now known as the Colregs). Sadly, I have been disappointed. Cruising downriver on the River Dart beside Dartmouth is utter bedlam: boats come at you from port, starboard, astern and ahead with complete disregard to any rules whatsoever. The other day one sloop, under power, crossed my bows from port (he should have gone round my stern), turned directly in front of me, then crossed back from starboard to port (causing me to alter course around his stern); when I looked back he was still zig-zagging across the fairway as if avoiding a torpedo. If I had had one, I would have fired it myself. On another occasion a ketch shot out unannounced from behind a line of boats to starboard and cut sharply in front of me; I altered course around his stern, only to find, as I passed, that there was no-one at the helm at all – the sole occupant was up for’d, stowing his sails. Sound signals (to indicate intended changes of course) are unheard of, except from the naval boats of the college. All this unpredictable behaviour is overlaid by commercial ferries going wherever they like, rubber dinghies coxed by blind men, and day or hire boats blithely criss-crossing without any fear whatsoever. I can forgive the ignorance of the day trippers and the arrogance of the ferries, but the yachtsmen really should know better. I would wager that all of them are competent sailors, can hand, reef and steer, and can hoist or lower a spinnaker at the drop of a hat; but Colregs and sound signals? Naah. They are for other people.
The contrast between the boaters’ behaviour on the different waterways is actually quite interesting. We bought our first boat (a narrowboat) in 2002 and, for a few years, kept her on the canals. The canals are largely populated by narrowboats or wide-beam barges; the narrowness of the canals, the height of bridges and the shallow depth of water all combining to restrict users with fibreglass cabin cruisers or similar craft. It is a slow and very relaxed lifestyle on the canals and everyone waves to each other as they pass. The enemy on the canals are the fishermen, who believe that the canals were built solely for them, and hate all boats with a passion; they certainly don’t wave to anyone. Now I have noticed that many narrowboat owners do develop distinct characteristics. For a start, their dress is different from other boaters: the muddy towpaths and heavy work of manually operating locks partly dictate the wearing of scruffy jeans and tops, top knots in men, and solid builders’ boots with steel toecaps or similar attire. Secondly, the women are almost always enormous, with arms on them like ham shanks, tattoos and jolly red faces. Finally, they very much hate it if you do not slow down your boat as you pass their mooring. This last is a legitimate and understandable complaint because, for hydrodynamic reasons, a boat passing close at speed will suck a moored boat away from the bank and – in extreme cases – pull out a narrowboat’s moorings. But there is a psychological element too: the moored boat must hear your engine note change. Even if you crawl past a moored narrowboat at tick-over speed, if there has been no previous change in engine noise, then the front doors of the moored boat will hurtle open and a large muscular woman will bellow at you to SLOW DOWN. I put this down to the introverted hermit-like existence of some narrow-boaters and the fact that they have little else to do but listen for approaching boats and find fault with their speed. The speed limit on the canals is 4mph, chosen mainly to prevent excess wash damaging the environment or washing away the canal banks but, in any case, a fast speed is not physically possible because of the hydrodynamics of moving in the shallow water (at speed the boat just gets pulled deeper into the water and can ground, a phenomenon known as “squat”). Not all narrow-boaters bellow at you, of course, and the canals are actually a very laid-back and friendly place to enjoy boating, but the behaviour is definitely a characteristic.
Now move on to the the inland rivers, such as the non-tidal Thames or Severn. Here, the speed limit will typically be a bit higher (for example, 5mph on the Thames), the rivers are much wider than the canals, but there is still a camaraderie and everyone waves to each other as they pass. The enemy on the inland rivers are the university rowers, who believe that the rivers are there solely for them, stop dead in front of you, and simply ignore all other craft. On the inland rivers, there are boats of all sizes and the key characteristic here is the hierarchy. At the top of the tree are the gin palaces: the big white sea-going cabin cruisers built from steel or fibreglass, with their whip aerials, their radomes, their inflated fenders with little socks on (to keep them clean), their twin turbo-charged diesels throttled right back like race horses champing at the bit, and their bathing platforms; they surge everywhere with great self-importance, leaving vast wash behind them; they are the BMWs and Audis of the waterways (I am sure you get the picture). Below them are the middle class: the smaller cabin cruisers, built in white fibreglass and usually quite old, their ownership often passed down through the generations. And at the very bottom are the narrowboats: at least 20 tons of steel, flat bottomed, long, narrow and low, painted with black bitumen and sometimes decorated with traditional artwork or plantpots. There is no-one below them. The sartorial standards and the crew girths match the boats. On the gin palaces you have the striped jerseys, the Gucci deck shoes, the designer white jeans cut off at the knee and the headscarves for the women, all of whom will be trim and well-preserved, though the menfolk will often be fat, florid and haughty; the narrowboat crews will be dressed and sized as previously described; the small cabin cruiser crews will be dressed as in everyday life ashore. The gin palaces hate the narrowboats. This is partly because – at up to 80 feet in length – the narrowboats take up a lot of space at a mooring and leave no room for the gin palaces to come alongside, but also because – in a lock – the bitumastic paint on the narrowboat hull can leave a greasy black mark on the gin palace’s pristine white gelcoat or on her fender socks. The crews of the gin palaces look down from their fly-bridges with disdain on narrow-boaters, both figuratively and literally, so there is definitely a snobbish element to the behaviour, though the top-end narrowboats are often superbly equipped with designer kitchens, marble baths and washing machines, and cost a great deal of money. Just as car drivers cannot bear to be stuck behind a cyclist, so a gin palace cannot bear to be stuck behind a narrowboat: they will move heaven and earth to beat a narrowboat into a lock then close the lock gate on her (I have actually seen this happen several times). The narrow-boaters, for their part, are mostly bemused by this behaviour (rather like the story of the tortoise and the hare), though they do resent having a gate slammed on them. Narrow-boaters call the gin palaces (and smaller cabin cruisers) “crunchies” because of the noise their fibreglass hulls make as they are compressed between two 20 ton steel narrowboats in a lock. The gin palaces, for their part, call the narrowboats “black slugs” or “ditch dwellers”.
Finally, the coastal rivers and the sea, populated by jet skis, gin palaces, sailing craft, and the rubber dinghies (called tenders) carried on the last two. Despite speed limits on the coastal rivers (for example, 6 knots – about 7 mph – on the River Dart) few boats take any notice and the resulting wash throws moored boats all over the place; you just get used to it. The enemy here are the paddle-boarders and canoeists who, like rowers on the inland rivers, ignore all other boats and have a death wish. Curiously, there is no real hierarchy on the coast despite the size of the bigger motor cruisers that border on being ships or private yachts, but there is no overt friendliness either: few wave at each other on the coast. There are no narrowboats of course, and the standard of dress is common throughout: deck shoes or the occasional designer leather seaboots, striped jerseys, shorts or cotton trousers, smocks, lifejackets.
The common elements (apart from the water) in all three environments are an apparent ignorance of the Rules of the Road and sound signals when on the river, and the ownership of dogs. Virtually all boats have dogs, sometimes more than one, and I have never understood why you would want to share a confined cabin with a smelly and wet animal. But there you go – I am not a doggie person, as you probably have already guessed..
It will not have escaped the astute reader’s notice, by the way, that I now own a gin palace by the above definition. But, having experienced what it is like to be a narrow-boater, I never looked down on any of them when I was on the inland rivers. And I do not have socks to cover my fenders.
“And here is the Shipping Forecast issued by the Met Office on behalf of the Maritime and Coastguard Agency at 0800 Greenwich Mean Time on Monday 27th of July. Wight, Portland, Plymouth: south south westerly Force 6, gusting Gale 8; 998; rain; poor…”. So chanted BBC Radio 4 on Monday. I don’t think I need add any more, other than to say it was as black as your hat outside despite it being daytime, the rain lashed the windows like a fire hose, and we did not leave our mooring. The high wind has characterised our entire stay afloat this time. If we had owned a sailing boat, then we would have delighted in the wind: beating close-hauled into a stiff south westerly, with the spray flicking over the weather bow can be exhilarating. In a motor boat the pleasure is not so great and the heavy swell (as explained in earlier blogs) can be a nuisance. When we did eventually go to sea, we tried to find a sheltered cove where we could drop anchor and relax, but on each occasion the boat tossed around like a cork after we anchored, and we had to weigh and move on. We did have a good day on Thursday, when Jane’s brother called for a visit, and we took him out to sea and then up river to Totnes, relaxing with a beer on the quarterdeck afterwards. We were looking forward to the next day avidly because it was billed as the hottest day so far. This prediction lasted until about noon, just as we were crossing the harbour bar; then the cloud came down, a squall swept in from the west and – would you believe it – mist and fog seeped up the river, blotting out Dartmouth and the surrounding countryside. I don’t know which parts of the country received the really hot sunny weather other than Heathrow airport. Certainly we didn’t.
Well we are back home now, after ten days escape on the boat, and we have decided that ten days (or possibly seven) are probably about right: we are glad to be back. No more sliding off the bed lengthways to get up, no more 35 pumps to flush the heads, no more creaks and groans (at least, not from the boat), no more falling head-first into the engine compartment with Jane holding my belt and trying to pull me out. As we finished loading up the car for the return I was amazed at how much stuff we were taking back. Much of it was dirty laundry, spread over three large sacks, and I could not fathom how it had been generated. Although I maintain a high sartorial standard onboard, this does not run to dress shirts and several changes of clothing, nor does Jane favour the A-line skirts or smart dresses that I would advocate ashore and she would reject. By normal standards we are pretty scruffy and casual onboard. Whence this dirty laundry then? No idea. It took me two days to wash and iron the stuff, with the washing machine working almost 24 hours a day. Do you find this when you return from holiday, though? An initial period of flapping about and trying to catch up, sifting through the mail, junk and otherwise; catching up on emails; mowing the lawn; dead-heading the roses and digging up the weeds? I suppose it is all rather normal. Anyway, we do not plan to return to the boat now until September when, we hope, many of the tourists have gone home.
The CV19 situation is generating mixed messages: the whole of the UK of some 66 million souls had only seven deaths from the virus the other day, and the south west of England (where we live) has had no deaths for over two weeks. This encouraging news belies the new and ubiquitous use of face coverings and gloomy predictions of a second wave of infections. Certainly the number of tests proving positive is increasing, but this is directly in proportion to the increased number of tests being undertaken: as President Trump has more-or-less stated, the more tests you do, the more cases you will find. I would like to know a bit more about the new cases that are identified: how many of them require hospital treatment, how many make the patient seriously ill, how many involve existing medical conditions or the aged, and how many are asymptomatic or mild. This information does not seem to be available. I still say that, if the death toll in the UK is in single figures and dropping, and is consistently below the 5-year average for all deaths at this time of year, then surely things are getting better? As I said in an earlier blog, we may have to get used to the idea of living with this virus and carrying on as normal, accepting that some of us may be ill, recover, or die from it; it is, after all, what we do with other illnesses such as measles, tuberculosis, cancer or influenza, and it is what our ancestors did with the Spanish flu in 1918 – 1920. I won’t be holding my breath for an effective vaccine and I have been surprised by the number of people who have told me that they wouldn’t have the vaccine even if there was one. While conformity with the current regulations in England has been remarkably good almost to the point of zealotry, there are cracks appearing in some sections of the community: illegal raves or wild house parties have occurred among some of the younger generation, and some holidaymakers are shedding their precautions with their cares when they leave their cities. The response to holidaymakers in some English tourist spots has been interesting: Cornwall – a county whose economy relies heavily on tourism – has been grumbling about tourists and second-home owners from the very beginning of the crisis and has consistently shown hostility to its own source of income (there may be a reckoning when all this is over); I read of similar parochial attitudes in Aldeburgh, Suffolk. Yet in Devonshire (or the bit where our boat is) visitors were very welcome as businesses struggle to recover from the economic effects of the lockdown. Jane noticed, however, that the price of her Dartmouth Ice Cream Company cone had gone up by 25p, bringing the cost of two (generous) servings up to £8. I imagine the company is making up for lost time, but that still seems like a lot for two ice creams. But that is a small price to pay for Jane’s happiness.
The UK Government’s Covid-19 Contain Framework now grants new powers to local authorities that will allow them to destroy cars, buses, trains or aeroplanes suspected of being contaminated with Covid 19. They will similarly be able to destroy care homes, offices or private houses as a last resort if the virus is considered to be out of control. I had to read this news twice and check my calendar that it is not April 1st when I read it. This is going totally over the top and is quite worrying. I may be losing faith in central government’s grip on this crisis, but I have no faith at all in the competence and judgement of local government. Covid 19 is not novichok and it is certainly nowhere near as lethal. It also dies out naturally on inert surfaces after 72 hours. A friend recently put forward the concern that the Machiavellian measures being introduced by central government were the first stages of an emerging totalitarian state and I just smiled at his conspiracy theory. Now, after this new development, I am not so sure that he is wrong. Scary. Distinctly scary.
Tragedy. Her Ladyship has cracked. I don’t mean that Jane’s sanity has finally shattered after 37 years of living with me, I mean her early-morning tea mug. We were presented with two mugs, labelled “Her Ladyship” and “His Lordship” as presents by some very good old friends many years ago, and we have used them exclusively for the early-morning tea ever since, to the point where it has become a ritual. In a similar vein, we have special red coffee cups and saucers, from the same source, used exclusively for breakfast (except on Sundays when they are given the day off). I wonder if others have similar traditions and rituals or is it that the Shacklepins are very slowly going round the twist? Poor Her Ladyship: now as cracked as her owners and destined for the scrap heap in the same way. It is the end of an era.
As I was shaving this morning I reflected, not for the first time, what a chore it was. It is a task so difficult to get just perfect. Use an electric shaver and the job is not done properly; have a wet shave and you risk a death from a thousand cuts. I use both methods, not always in one session, and I suppose it is something I have done some 18,000 times. I pondered this morning on whether to grow a beard, an affectation so much easier now that I am no longer on the active list of the Royal Navy. You see, in the Service you had to ask permission to grow a beard; officers asked the Executive Officer and ratings asked their Divisional Officer. There were certain other restrictions attached to the process too. For a start, you did not ask permission to grow a beard, you asked permission to discontinue shaving. There is a difference. No goatees, half beards, or weird styles were permitted: it had to be a full set. You will never see a member of the Royal Navy with a moustache unless, possibly, it is a female Chief Stoker. Secondly, you were not allowed ashore on leave while the beard was growing, so the best time to grow one was when embarking on a long voyage. Finally, at the end of a month the growth was vetted and, if it was scraggy, patchy or half grown, the owner would be told to shave it off. Do you remember those toxic cigarettes called Senior Service, which had a picture of a Jolly Jack Tar, bearing a full set, on the front? The caption was, “Senior Service Satisfy”, something I have always tried to do over the years. I considered all this after I nicked my chin this morning and wondered if I should ask permission to grow a set from my Executive Officer aka the memsahib. I put the proposition to her over breakfast and was surprised by the liberal response,
“Yes, no problem at all…”.
My eyebrows rose.
“…but, of course, there will be no kissing if you have a beard”.
Pass me that razor, would you?
6 August 2020